Later in this review they briefly praise and point at those same preset buttons.
Many ATK reviews resemble fortune telling more than actual reviews. They aren't all that helpful and you use your confirmation bias to cherry pick whatever you want to hear. Their specific model recommendations also tend to drive sales to the point of unavailability or price gouging.
* https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IRAi6Nzxbk
"Who needs extra buttons labelled things like 'Kids Meals', 'Healthy Cooking', or 'Snack'? What does that even mean?"