To be pedantic, the correct URL is technically https://mail.google.com/mail/h/, which then expands in practice to https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/h/ and then gets the jumble of characters near the end added on which appears to be an everything-compliant cache-busting mechanism. When typing the URL manually the "/" after the "h" is required; "mail.google.com/mail/h" will not work.
Initially it takes me to a page that asks, "Do you really want to use HTML Gmail?" I need to click "I'd like to use HTML Gmail" button to proceed to HTML Gmail.